I've long held that the problem with upgrading or with using high quality equipment is that then you get accustomed to that level of performance and your life becomes more expensive. I've thought this to be true of bicycles and of musical instruments in particular. And so I've tried to some extent not to expose myself to higher quality things.
I don't really know why, but when I bought the second kit I started feeling bad about the fact that I had bought something so crappy. It made me feel like a loser and made me immediately want to upgrade the kit. This is an unusual way for me to feel.
But so began the great update. I am now about $600 into what began as "I'll just pick up this cheap kit off Craig's List". I can feel another $600 going out the window before I'll feel totally set up for a while too.
In the end I still think that the kit purchase, at $150, was probably a good deal. The toms and bass are solid and it would have cost double or more to buy any other ones. And heads, stands, cymbals are usually sold separately anyway...so it's not like I would not have needed those things anyway.
Yesterday, my order from Musician's Friend of heads and a straight cymbal stand came in. I replaced the resonent heads, including bass, on the new kit...and switched my good bass batter head to the new kit as well. The new baby now has new stuff all the way. Well, with the exception of the snare, which I think is kind of crap. I'm going to use the new toms with my old snare and all of my best hardware as my "gig" kit now...leaving whatever is left over set up permanently at home to practice on. My best cymbals will do double duty on both kits. I'm pretty happy about the new straight stand. I've been using the light weight one from the new kit at Drain practice and it scoots away from me constantly. The new one is REALLY heavy. It should stay put.
I also, after days of research but still relatively on a whim, went to Good N Loud and bought a set of used Zildjian A New Beat 13" hi hats for $185. I wanted the 14" ones and wanted to pay less than $175...but by the time I got there...there was no going back once I saw that they had a set of New Beats. After my nearly exclusively online research, these had emerged as my main choice on a list of "keep your eye out for" models. These would have been $300-$325 new.
At SSW practice last night I used the New Beats and the El Sabor ride I bought last weekend. The El Sabor had been a little bit of a disappointment when I got it home. It is very bright and I didn't like it as much as I thought I would (I do like the bell a lot though). But playing the El Sabor without ear plugs with a live band...it sounded fine. I do think one day I may want to get a "darker" ride. I'm finally starting to understand what that means. Something in the "K" family of Zildjians maybe.
And then there was the New Beats.
Oh my god. These sound and play totally differently than any hi hats I've ever played. They are awesome. I'm going to have to totally adjust my playing because they are so sensitive to my foot pressure...I used to have lots of slack and now it really matters how much pressure I apply. It feels like a whole new world.
And so...as I suspected...I'm ruined and in for great expense. Perhaps another $600 before the dust settles, though there's no rush on any of it.
The anticipated progression of money:
-replace the tom brackets at least on the gig kit if not on both kits. I researched today and to replace these with Pearl-style mounts it will cost about $65-$75 per kit. This is the most cheaply made thing on my kits and the most irritating. I took a good look this morning and realized it is totally replaceable with Pearl-style mounts. This would make set up and tear down way easier and I wouldn't always have toms getting loose or falling. This may become priority one now that I know it is possible
-Probably priority two: get a good quality crash. I'd like to have two on the kit. First get something bigger than the 16 inch I have...then later add a second 16 inch to replace the Colorsound I have (maybe...maybe not...would be down the road). I can get a crash for less than $200 used I suspect...perhaps even lower...but research pending.
-get a good quality snare. I wasn't really worried about this until last night...but I realized that it could really elevate my playing the way the new hi hats will. My old snare is actually in decent shape...the new one is crap. I'll need to decide if I want an upgraded metal snare (both of the ones I have now are metal) or to get a wood snare. This could run a huge range of cost and I imagine will take a while to research. I think I probably could find something in the $200 range to suit me though.
-a good quality splash...still not sure if this is needed. I think most splashs kind of sound shitty...it's inherent in the product. Probably I will just move away from using the splash so much and move into using crashes more. Wearing earplugs will make this possible and playing with louder bands may require it.
-eventually...no rush...get a darker or better ride cymbal. This would be a "keep an eye out for used" situation. Just wait until a steal or a really great cymbal comes along. I don't want to spend more than $150...but rides, especially nice ones, can be really expensive. I want to wait for the right one more than pick up a steal. I bought my cheapie already (the El Sabor) and that'll be fine until something great comes along.
The good news...I think my hardware is where I need it to be for the most part now except for ongoing repair and replacements. And I'm totally happy with my bass pedals. There isn't much in the way of accessories that I need either. Heads and sticks will continue to be an ongoing expense, of course. But I think I can make things respectable for a reasonable amount. $1200 at the end of the day SEEMS like a ton of money...and it is for me...but I essentially saved another $600 on the kit.
Thursday, October 7, 2010
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
Comparisons: Cymbals
Cymbals may the the most complex thing to compare. My situation is that I have two drum kits. One has the cheapest cymbals they make on it...the ones that came with a beginner's kit. The other has half of what I'd classify as introductory cymbals...a few steps up from the ones on the other kit...but nothing fancy. The other half are perhaps a step up from that...we'll call them intermediate or semi-pro cymbals. I've recently decided to get a set of used "pro-grade" cymbals and shift my intro and semi-pro cymbals to my second kit.
I currently have the following:
-Paiste 2000 Colorsound 16" Crash (given to me for a ridiculously low $25 by RD. It's a good cymbal and research tells me it is in the quality area that I want to up grade to. It sounds ok but the sound isn't special to me)
-Paiste 302 20" Ride (came used with my first kit. Research says this is an old intro line. It's ok, but nothing special. The bell is also too small for my taste.)
-Zildjian Scimitar Hi-Hats, either 13" or 14" not sure (came used with my first kit. My research tells me this is an old intro line of cymbals. The top hat has some keyholing starting)
-Wuhan 12" Splash (bought new for I think around $30 at PASIC)
Stashed in the pile I don't use much:
-Zildjian ZXT Titanium 10" Splash (came used with my first kit. I much loved this cymbal, but it ends up being too high and quiet for my needs. I've also trashed it so it has a dent and some cracking at the center)
-Meinl Bell. I don't remember the size or know the model. (bought new at PASIC for close to retail...didn't realize this at time. I got it cause I was unhappy with my ride bell. It hasn't worked into the kit well though.)
And the first purchase in my upgrade plan
-Sabian AA El Sabor 20" Ride (bought used for $60 last weekend. When I was looking to get a 12" splash I really like the El Sabor line for its sound and its unfinished bells, so I jumped at the chance to get this so cheap. In particular because I'd just seen one on Craig's List for double the price. After I got it home I wasn't that happy with the ride sound...though I like the bell a lot. The ride is brighter than I'd like I think. It may just take getting used to, though.)
So, as I've mentioned, I'm a cheap bastard. And there's no getting around that cymbals are really expensive. Which would normally lead me to cheap out. But in this case it just doesn't pay. If I wanted to go that way I'd stick with what I have and call it a day. But I want to improve my sound and to be taken more seriously, and I think better equipment will help in that. The consolation is that good cymbals played in the way I play them will last a lifetime. They won't ever need to be replaced unless they get stolen or damaged by accident unless I want a new sound. So it is worth going with something decent.
It is NOT however, worth going with something decent and something NEW. The interesting thing about cymbals is that their sound changes with age...so to me it's better to buy used cause they are "worn in" and you get what you buy in terms of sound. And, of course, used is cheaper. In some cases WAY cheaper.
The pitfall of buying used it that you have to know what you're doing. You have to know what something is worth...and therefore what is a good deal. And you have to know what to look for in terms of damage. Detecting damage is pretty easy. Generally avoid keyholing at the center or cracks (unless it's a smokin' deal and you think you can repair the damage). Speaking to knowing what's worth it...that's a combo of what sounds good to me...and what is a quality product. So this comparison is to tell me what is a quality product.
Entry level cymbals tend to be made of brass and/or be cut from a sheet. Better cymbals are cast of bronze. Typically, the lower/cheaper end of that spectrum has less tin in the bronze...like 8%. Higher quality cymbals have 20% tin. There are all kinds of alloys used and this isn't a hard and fast rule...but it's a good enough rule of thumb for me. Basically...I'm looking to move into an all cast 20% tin bronze situation.
Then it's just a matter of taste and cost. Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately), I don't have a very discerning ear. So it's hard for me to say what I like. To be honest, I don't like cymbals in general, they are too harsh to me. So I think I tend away from trashy/washy sounds and towards mellow tones with a quick decay. I want it to be as non-irritating to me as possible and for it to go away quickly. That said, I think not being super picky works in my favor, because I can be open to a broader range of models in the used market.
So my search will generally be amongst Zildjian, Sabian, and Paiste cymbals. These are just the most common. I wouldn't turn my nose up at a Meinl or a Wuhan or Dream brand...but I would want to evaluate them more carefully. I also expect to see fewer of them out there. Other brands are around too...but I'm really looking for well known, well tested products.
Below are general lines. Within each line there are dozens of models...and that's where it starts to get more complicated. Still wading through that, but below are the general guidelines.
Things I Want to Keep an Eye Out For:
-Paiste 2000, 2002, 3000, Giant Beat lines
-Sabian AA, AAX, HH, HHX lines
-Zildjian A (also called Avendis), A Custom, K, K Custom lines
Things I Want to Avoid:
-Paiste pst3, pst5, 101, 201, 302, 402, 404, 502, 505, 802
-Sabian apx, sbr, xs, B8, B8pro,
-Zildjian pitch black, z3, zht, zbt, zxt
Stuff I'm Not Sure About Yet:
-Paiste Formula 602, 1000, Alpha, Rude, Signature, Twenty
-Sabian vault
-Zildjian Z Custom
I currently have the following:
-Paiste 2000 Colorsound 16" Crash (given to me for a ridiculously low $25 by RD. It's a good cymbal and research tells me it is in the quality area that I want to up grade to. It sounds ok but the sound isn't special to me)
-Paiste 302 20" Ride (came used with my first kit. Research says this is an old intro line. It's ok, but nothing special. The bell is also too small for my taste.)
-Zildjian Scimitar Hi-Hats, either 13" or 14" not sure (came used with my first kit. My research tells me this is an old intro line of cymbals. The top hat has some keyholing starting)
-Wuhan 12" Splash (bought new for I think around $30 at PASIC)
Stashed in the pile I don't use much:
-Zildjian ZXT Titanium 10" Splash (came used with my first kit. I much loved this cymbal, but it ends up being too high and quiet for my needs. I've also trashed it so it has a dent and some cracking at the center)
-Meinl Bell. I don't remember the size or know the model. (bought new at PASIC for close to retail...didn't realize this at time. I got it cause I was unhappy with my ride bell. It hasn't worked into the kit well though.)
And the first purchase in my upgrade plan
-Sabian AA El Sabor 20" Ride (bought used for $60 last weekend. When I was looking to get a 12" splash I really like the El Sabor line for its sound and its unfinished bells, so I jumped at the chance to get this so cheap. In particular because I'd just seen one on Craig's List for double the price. After I got it home I wasn't that happy with the ride sound...though I like the bell a lot. The ride is brighter than I'd like I think. It may just take getting used to, though.)
So, as I've mentioned, I'm a cheap bastard. And there's no getting around that cymbals are really expensive. Which would normally lead me to cheap out. But in this case it just doesn't pay. If I wanted to go that way I'd stick with what I have and call it a day. But I want to improve my sound and to be taken more seriously, and I think better equipment will help in that. The consolation is that good cymbals played in the way I play them will last a lifetime. They won't ever need to be replaced unless they get stolen or damaged by accident unless I want a new sound. So it is worth going with something decent.
It is NOT however, worth going with something decent and something NEW. The interesting thing about cymbals is that their sound changes with age...so to me it's better to buy used cause they are "worn in" and you get what you buy in terms of sound. And, of course, used is cheaper. In some cases WAY cheaper.
The pitfall of buying used it that you have to know what you're doing. You have to know what something is worth...and therefore what is a good deal. And you have to know what to look for in terms of damage. Detecting damage is pretty easy. Generally avoid keyholing at the center or cracks (unless it's a smokin' deal and you think you can repair the damage). Speaking to knowing what's worth it...that's a combo of what sounds good to me...and what is a quality product. So this comparison is to tell me what is a quality product.
Entry level cymbals tend to be made of brass and/or be cut from a sheet. Better cymbals are cast of bronze. Typically, the lower/cheaper end of that spectrum has less tin in the bronze...like 8%. Higher quality cymbals have 20% tin. There are all kinds of alloys used and this isn't a hard and fast rule...but it's a good enough rule of thumb for me. Basically...I'm looking to move into an all cast 20% tin bronze situation.
Then it's just a matter of taste and cost. Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately), I don't have a very discerning ear. So it's hard for me to say what I like. To be honest, I don't like cymbals in general, they are too harsh to me. So I think I tend away from trashy/washy sounds and towards mellow tones with a quick decay. I want it to be as non-irritating to me as possible and for it to go away quickly. That said, I think not being super picky works in my favor, because I can be open to a broader range of models in the used market.
So my search will generally be amongst Zildjian, Sabian, and Paiste cymbals. These are just the most common. I wouldn't turn my nose up at a Meinl or a Wuhan or Dream brand...but I would want to evaluate them more carefully. I also expect to see fewer of them out there. Other brands are around too...but I'm really looking for well known, well tested products.
Below are general lines. Within each line there are dozens of models...and that's where it starts to get more complicated. Still wading through that, but below are the general guidelines.
Things I Want to Keep an Eye Out For:
-Paiste 2000, 2002, 3000, Giant Beat lines
-Sabian AA, AAX, HH, HHX lines
-Zildjian A (also called Avendis), A Custom, K, K Custom lines
Things I Want to Avoid:
-Paiste pst3, pst5, 101, 201, 302, 402, 404, 502, 505, 802
-Sabian apx, sbr, xs, B8, B8pro,
-Zildjian pitch black, z3, zht, zbt, zxt
Stuff I'm Not Sure About Yet:
-Paiste Formula 602, 1000, Alpha, Rude, Signature, Twenty
-Sabian vault
-Zildjian Z Custom
Monday, October 4, 2010
Comparisons: Sticks
Something I had no idea about when I started playing drums was that drums sticks are consumables. They get used up. And pretty quickly sometimes. I used to think you bought one pair and that was the end. But, no, they have to be replaced regularly.
Vic Firth
I started out using 7A Vic Firth just because that's what was recommended to me. These are lighter and thinner. I moved on to 5Bs when I needed more volume and had built some hand strength (thicker and heavier). I started with wood tips.
I thought that Vic Firth was the leader in the industry. But it felt like a ran through Vic Firth's pretty quickly. They splintered and broke and the tips broke. Sometimes the centers would splinter the first week I used them.
Vater
I had one set of 5B wood tip Vater's that I used for lessons only that outlasted a dozen pairs of Vic Firth's...and that made me think about making the switch. Now I use Vater 5Bs with nylon tips. The first pair of those I bought I've had for months now with no problems at all. Very little wear. I bought my second set recently only cause they were on closeout (they are black, we'll see if that makes a difference) for like $3. But I haven't pulled the new pair out yet cause the first ones are going strong. Very happy with these.
Zildjian
I have used some Zildjian sticks and generally been happy with them. I have two pairs that are dipped with a indentation at the balance point that I like sometimes and I bought some Travis Barker's just to see if I could use them because a predescessor had, but they are too heavy for me. He's had good luck with them lasting, though, which is saying something cause he's a masher.
ProMark & Other Brands
I have not tried these
SUMMARY
Drum sticks seem to run $6-9 pretty consistantly unless you get them on closeout. You can save a little money buying multi-packs...but the savings isn't much. I can never justify the expense of a multipack.
There's tons of off-brand sticks out there sold much cheaper. I have no idea if they are worth it. They usually come in huge packs and I just don't want to take that chance. Now that I've found sticks that seem to last, it doesn't seem neccessary to buy in bulk anyway.
In general I avoid artist signature lines or weird style types and try to stick with the standard sizes...for now 5B exlusively pretty much. Sometimes I'll go outside that for something interesting or something dirt cheap. I bought some "heavy metal" sticks that I think amount to being 2Bs (heavy and long...like John Bonham would use). I use them on my practice pad only to build endurance.
For now, I'm happy with my Vater 5B nylon tips.
Vic Firth
I started out using 7A Vic Firth just because that's what was recommended to me. These are lighter and thinner. I moved on to 5Bs when I needed more volume and had built some hand strength (thicker and heavier). I started with wood tips.
I thought that Vic Firth was the leader in the industry. But it felt like a ran through Vic Firth's pretty quickly. They splintered and broke and the tips broke. Sometimes the centers would splinter the first week I used them.
Vater
I had one set of 5B wood tip Vater's that I used for lessons only that outlasted a dozen pairs of Vic Firth's...and that made me think about making the switch. Now I use Vater 5Bs with nylon tips. The first pair of those I bought I've had for months now with no problems at all. Very little wear. I bought my second set recently only cause they were on closeout (they are black, we'll see if that makes a difference) for like $3. But I haven't pulled the new pair out yet cause the first ones are going strong. Very happy with these.
Zildjian
I have used some Zildjian sticks and generally been happy with them. I have two pairs that are dipped with a indentation at the balance point that I like sometimes and I bought some Travis Barker's just to see if I could use them because a predescessor had, but they are too heavy for me. He's had good luck with them lasting, though, which is saying something cause he's a masher.
ProMark & Other Brands
I have not tried these
SUMMARY
Drum sticks seem to run $6-9 pretty consistantly unless you get them on closeout. You can save a little money buying multi-packs...but the savings isn't much. I can never justify the expense of a multipack.
There's tons of off-brand sticks out there sold much cheaper. I have no idea if they are worth it. They usually come in huge packs and I just don't want to take that chance. Now that I've found sticks that seem to last, it doesn't seem neccessary to buy in bulk anyway.
In general I avoid artist signature lines or weird style types and try to stick with the standard sizes...for now 5B exlusively pretty much. Sometimes I'll go outside that for something interesting or something dirt cheap. I bought some "heavy metal" sticks that I think amount to being 2Bs (heavy and long...like John Bonham would use). I use them on my practice pad only to build endurance.
For now, I'm happy with my Vater 5B nylon tips.
Comparisons: Drum Heads
I've not yet determined my best head combo. For the most part I've run with REMO...either clear Emperor tom batter heads or clear Pinstripes...and a controlled sound coated dot snare. For resonant heads, clear Ambassadors and a hazy snare. For bass batter either a coated Emperor or clear Powerstroke 3. I briefly used some Evans heads (EC2s I think) on a kit I was borrowing as well.
Remo
For price, models tend to run, low to high: Diplomat, Ambassador, Emperor, Pinstripe. The specialty heads I don't take note of. Black (ebony) tends to be more than clear...coated more than clear as well. But the price differences are often minor...a buck or two at most. Bigger heads are more expensive as well.
Evans
It probably depends on the retailer, but it seems to me that Evans heads are a hair more expensive than Remo, but this might be because I'm looking at heads with more features. I get the feeling Evans tend to be less available...though I think this is changing and depends on where you go.
Aquarian
I think Aquarian heads are ugly. I can't help it. They sometimes seem to be a little cheaper than other brands, but they can also be hard to find. I ignored them.
SUMMARY
I haven't listed out prices here...but a single snare or tom head in standard sizes is going to run $10-$20 pretty much depending on size, brand, and model. A 22 inch bass head will run $35-$45. Sometimes it makes no sense to me the prices they assign (sometimes "better" heads aren't much more).
I still haven't decided what my go-to heads are, but I've been pleased enough with Remo for sound, durability, availability, and price. I'm currently running two kits...one with clear Emperors and one with Pinstripes. We'll see if I can tell the difference enough to move to Pinstripes permanently. They are slightly more pricey.
I haven't really gone with coated heads for toms at all. Probably something worth researching. I think the kit I borrow on Monday nights might have coated toms.
Without a doubt for kits in standard sizes (which I have...12, 13, 16, 22, 14 snare), "Pro-packs" or pre-packaged sets are the way to go. Much cheaper than buying heads individually. My new thing is to keep an eye out for sales. I picked up a 3 pack of pinstripes with a Powerstroke 3 snare for $29 at Guitar Center recently...which was just ridiculously cheap. Worth buying any time a deal like that pops up. Usually heads are cheaper online (if shipping is free...if not can be an oversized item...watch out)...and nearly always there's a better chance of finding what you want online. I have trouble finding the correct models in stores often.
Remo
For price, models tend to run, low to high: Diplomat, Ambassador, Emperor, Pinstripe. The specialty heads I don't take note of. Black (ebony) tends to be more than clear...coated more than clear as well. But the price differences are often minor...a buck or two at most. Bigger heads are more expensive as well.
Evans
It probably depends on the retailer, but it seems to me that Evans heads are a hair more expensive than Remo, but this might be because I'm looking at heads with more features. I get the feeling Evans tend to be less available...though I think this is changing and depends on where you go.
Aquarian
I think Aquarian heads are ugly. I can't help it. They sometimes seem to be a little cheaper than other brands, but they can also be hard to find. I ignored them.
SUMMARY
I haven't listed out prices here...but a single snare or tom head in standard sizes is going to run $10-$20 pretty much depending on size, brand, and model. A 22 inch bass head will run $35-$45. Sometimes it makes no sense to me the prices they assign (sometimes "better" heads aren't much more).
I still haven't decided what my go-to heads are, but I've been pleased enough with Remo for sound, durability, availability, and price. I'm currently running two kits...one with clear Emperors and one with Pinstripes. We'll see if I can tell the difference enough to move to Pinstripes permanently. They are slightly more pricey.
I haven't really gone with coated heads for toms at all. Probably something worth researching. I think the kit I borrow on Monday nights might have coated toms.
Without a doubt for kits in standard sizes (which I have...12, 13, 16, 22, 14 snare), "Pro-packs" or pre-packaged sets are the way to go. Much cheaper than buying heads individually. My new thing is to keep an eye out for sales. I picked up a 3 pack of pinstripes with a Powerstroke 3 snare for $29 at Guitar Center recently...which was just ridiculously cheap. Worth buying any time a deal like that pops up. Usually heads are cheaper online (if shipping is free...if not can be an oversized item...watch out)...and nearly always there's a better chance of finding what you want online. I have trouble finding the correct models in stores often.
Comparisons: Hardware/Stands
I've been creating some comparison spreadsheets off line for things I've been thinking about buying. It occurs to me I ought to share some results.
So I'm a cheap bastard. I also am not typically swayed by fancy designer labels. But I've been playing drums long enough now to know that, to some degree, you get what you pay for. That said...surely, I thought, there's got to be a balance between quality and economy. Good enough...as cheap as possible.
Spreadsheet #1: Hardware/Stands
Generally quality improves as you move up through the model numbers, with exceptions noted. PDP I think is a LITTLE more poorly made than the other companies, but they tend to be the cheapest by far. What this exercise taught me is that it is ok to buy PDP, but that I should be looking for the 800 or 900 and never buy their 700 series. Currently every piece of hardware I own was made by a different company, many of which I couldn't find info on. Like with PDP, the key seems to be where the item falls on that company's spectrum more so than the company itself. Also, some companies add features that I don't need on their upper level series. So generally what I'm looking for is the sturdiest possible product without unneccessary features. Where it tends to break down is on how well screws hold.
DW
2000 Entry-Level
3000 Standard-Medium Weight
5000 Medium Weight
6000 Retro Flush
7000 Lightweight Single Braced
8000 Ultra Heavy Duty
9000 Heavy Duty
PDP
700 Light weight
800 medium weight
900 heavy duty
Mapex
500
700
750A
950A
Pearl
Like with Ludwig (below) I am suspicious that the Pearl name drives up costs.
70W
100S flat single braced
900
1000
2000
Gibraltar
5600 Series
6600 Series
7700 Series
8600 Series Flat Base
9600 Series Heavy Duty
JZ Series Single Braced
Yamaha
Doesn't do a great job of describing their series online, though they seem to have a similiar 600 through 800 scale in the low and mid-range prices as the other companies.
Tama
Also did not like their web presence. Also tend to have the 600-800 kind of scale though.
Ludwig
I didn't even bother looking into them. Like with Pearl (above) I suspect they trade heavily on their name and that this drives up cost. I think the only reason to buy Ludwig hardware is if you wanted the name to match your Ludwig shells.
SUMMARY
I think brand matters less than model. Honestly, it's possible many brands are manufactured at the same place and different stickers get put on (I suspect this is likely for the lessor brands I've not listed here). Price and availability vary widely both at online retailers and in stores. Also, in stores it can be hard to determine model numbers on stands.
What I've learned is, generally speaking for my needs and cost tolerance...$29 is too cheap...and $100 is too expensive. What I'm looking for is a mid to heavy weight stand in the $50 to $80 range depending on style (prices range, high to low, usually in this order...high hats, snares, boom cymbal stand, straight cymbal stands).
Also, I used to think a boom stand was always better that a straight stand because of the increased options, but what I'm realizing is a boom has one more pivot point...which no matter the quality of the product, gives one more point of potential failure.
Good rule of thumb...get something with an 800 or 900 series (or 80/90 or 8000/9000). Stay away from 600 and 700 series in most brands. Exception might be DW...which has a 3000 and a 5000 series that MIGHT be ok (to be determined).
Best option, take a tour of your local shop to get an idea of features of the various brands/models...but buy online where you can compare prices and can see the model number clearly. Buy from a retailer that doesn't charge shipping, cause this stuff is heavy.
So I'm a cheap bastard. I also am not typically swayed by fancy designer labels. But I've been playing drums long enough now to know that, to some degree, you get what you pay for. That said...surely, I thought, there's got to be a balance between quality and economy. Good enough...as cheap as possible.
Spreadsheet #1: Hardware/Stands
Generally quality improves as you move up through the model numbers, with exceptions noted. PDP I think is a LITTLE more poorly made than the other companies, but they tend to be the cheapest by far. What this exercise taught me is that it is ok to buy PDP, but that I should be looking for the 800 or 900 and never buy their 700 series. Currently every piece of hardware I own was made by a different company, many of which I couldn't find info on. Like with PDP, the key seems to be where the item falls on that company's spectrum more so than the company itself. Also, some companies add features that I don't need on their upper level series. So generally what I'm looking for is the sturdiest possible product without unneccessary features. Where it tends to break down is on how well screws hold.
DW
2000 Entry-Level
3000 Standard-Medium Weight
5000 Medium Weight
6000 Retro Flush
7000 Lightweight Single Braced
8000 Ultra Heavy Duty
9000 Heavy Duty
PDP
700 Light weight
800 medium weight
900 heavy duty
Mapex
500
700
750A
950A
Pearl
Like with Ludwig (below) I am suspicious that the Pearl name drives up costs.
70W
100S flat single braced
900
1000
2000
Gibraltar
5600 Series
6600 Series
7700 Series
8600 Series Flat Base
9600 Series Heavy Duty
JZ Series Single Braced
Yamaha
Doesn't do a great job of describing their series online, though they seem to have a similiar 600 through 800 scale in the low and mid-range prices as the other companies.
Tama
Also did not like their web presence. Also tend to have the 600-800 kind of scale though.
Ludwig
I didn't even bother looking into them. Like with Pearl (above) I suspect they trade heavily on their name and that this drives up cost. I think the only reason to buy Ludwig hardware is if you wanted the name to match your Ludwig shells.
SUMMARY
I think brand matters less than model. Honestly, it's possible many brands are manufactured at the same place and different stickers get put on (I suspect this is likely for the lessor brands I've not listed here). Price and availability vary widely both at online retailers and in stores. Also, in stores it can be hard to determine model numbers on stands.
What I've learned is, generally speaking for my needs and cost tolerance...$29 is too cheap...and $100 is too expensive. What I'm looking for is a mid to heavy weight stand in the $50 to $80 range depending on style (prices range, high to low, usually in this order...high hats, snares, boom cymbal stand, straight cymbal stands).
Also, I used to think a boom stand was always better that a straight stand because of the increased options, but what I'm realizing is a boom has one more pivot point...which no matter the quality of the product, gives one more point of potential failure.
Good rule of thumb...get something with an 800 or 900 series (or 80/90 or 8000/9000). Stay away from 600 and 700 series in most brands. Exception might be DW...which has a 3000 and a 5000 series that MIGHT be ok (to be determined).
Best option, take a tour of your local shop to get an idea of features of the various brands/models...but buy online where you can compare prices and can see the model number clearly. Buy from a retailer that doesn't charge shipping, cause this stuff is heavy.
Checking In
This blog has gone a bit off the rails in the last few months.
My original intent for this blog was to have it be fairly anonymous and to keep the bitching to a minimum. Just track my progress and post info along the way that helped me. Drummer profiles. Resources. Songs to learn.
Not having a weekly lesson hurts the blog AND my progress I suspect, but it isn't the end of the world.
I've been focused on learning songs for auditions and post-audition ramp up the last few months and this has thrown everything off too. And since the new band doesn't have videos online, I can't even post those.
But I'd like to get back to the basics here. In particular I want to get back to posting drummer profiles. I've been reading plenty of Drum! and Modern Drummer articles about people whose names are both familiar and new to me. I'm way behind.
I'm also in the slow, painful process of digitizing my entire cd collection. This will make it much easier to hit "shuffle" and get hundreds of drummers streaming to my ears to play along to. I think this may make me want to learn who those folks are again.
I admit too that this past weekend someone said something to me about blogging and it reminded me of one of the reasons why this blog was started...to post information on a particular subject that, while it would have a personal edge (my journey) would be less about me and more about the subject matter. A blog that would be useful to people who never met me...rather than useful to people who knew me for reposting and screwing me over with my words. Less drama, more rock. I fear I've started to editorialize here too much on my personal daily experiences. And I want to get away from that. I'd like this to be a place that drummers (or bass players) stumble upon and get drawn into...and that people who know me stumble upon, instantly find super boring, and never come back to.
End of unneccessary administrative hyper-self-aware post. Back to the drums.
My original intent for this blog was to have it be fairly anonymous and to keep the bitching to a minimum. Just track my progress and post info along the way that helped me. Drummer profiles. Resources. Songs to learn.
Not having a weekly lesson hurts the blog AND my progress I suspect, but it isn't the end of the world.
I've been focused on learning songs for auditions and post-audition ramp up the last few months and this has thrown everything off too. And since the new band doesn't have videos online, I can't even post those.
But I'd like to get back to the basics here. In particular I want to get back to posting drummer profiles. I've been reading plenty of Drum! and Modern Drummer articles about people whose names are both familiar and new to me. I'm way behind.
I'm also in the slow, painful process of digitizing my entire cd collection. This will make it much easier to hit "shuffle" and get hundreds of drummers streaming to my ears to play along to. I think this may make me want to learn who those folks are again.
I admit too that this past weekend someone said something to me about blogging and it reminded me of one of the reasons why this blog was started...to post information on a particular subject that, while it would have a personal edge (my journey) would be less about me and more about the subject matter. A blog that would be useful to people who never met me...rather than useful to people who knew me for reposting and screwing me over with my words. Less drama, more rock. I fear I've started to editorialize here too much on my personal daily experiences. And I want to get away from that. I'd like this to be a place that drummers (or bass players) stumble upon and get drawn into...and that people who know me stumble upon, instantly find super boring, and never come back to.
End of unneccessary administrative hyper-self-aware post. Back to the drums.
Adopting a New Baby, Photo Evidence
I went on a little bit of a purchasing binge this weekend. On Friday I ordered resonent heads (including a bass front head) and a straight cymbal stand for the new kit from Musician's Friend. I had been evaluating online merchants for a few weeks and while some have a better selection and lower prices than Guitar Center and Musician's Friend, I finally realized that Musician's Friend has mostly free shipping, which ends up making a huge difference for oversized drum heads and heavy hardware. I also got a snare bag after busting my snare wires last week.
Followup was that I'd forgotten I also "needed" a falam slam patch and new snare wires, so I headed to Guitar Center locally and Good N Loud Music. While at Guitar Center I decided to inquire if they had any used cymbals, after the smokin' deal I got there on used chimes a few months ago. Indeed they did have used cymbals, behind the counter, including a 20 inch Sabian El Sabor Ride. I like that line of cymbals and nearly bought the exact same one off Craig's List last week. New cost $245...CL price $120...Guitar Center price $60. A smokin' deal again. I couldn't help myself.
That got me thinking that I'd seen some pretty cool used cymbals at Good N Loud the last time I was there. They had reorganized their drum stuff recently. So I stopped by. The cymbals I'd seen last time weren't there (pretty quick turnover) but they had other decent ones. Nothing on a screaming deal...but reasonable prices for good used cymbals. I would like to acquire a set of good quality used high hats and another decent crash...maybe an 18" crash. Good N Loud had some Zildjian high hats that run $350 new for $199-ish used. I just wasn't prepared to spend that much. But when I am ready to drop $200...I know where to watch now. Definitely a good deal.
Nevermind that I'd rather get used cymbals anyway so I know how they will wear in. A new cymbal is gonna sound different 6 months or a year into playing it. I want to know the final sound. On the other hand, I don't have a great ear for these things.
Also picked up the coolest thing ever. A locking high hat clutch. No more unscrewing in the middle of a show. Super awesome.
Here's the new kit, taken before last weekend's buying binge. I've transferred my existing hardware and cymbals to this kit...and put away most of the stuff that came with it. Also have set aside the 12" tom rack tom and am using only the 13". By the end of this week it'll be outfitted with all new resonent heads. I'm planning to make this my gig kit and leave the other kit set up for general practice. I'm also gonna probably switch out my snares...so this kit will have black toms with black hardware and a silver snare with silver hardware. I don't like the look of the silver snare with the black hardware. Plus, I think the snare that came with this kit has a warped edge. It doesn't seem to affect the tuning, but I'm sure it isn't as good sounding as my other snare.
Followup was that I'd forgotten I also "needed" a falam slam patch and new snare wires, so I headed to Guitar Center locally and Good N Loud Music. While at Guitar Center I decided to inquire if they had any used cymbals, after the smokin' deal I got there on used chimes a few months ago. Indeed they did have used cymbals, behind the counter, including a 20 inch Sabian El Sabor Ride. I like that line of cymbals and nearly bought the exact same one off Craig's List last week. New cost $245...CL price $120...Guitar Center price $60. A smokin' deal again. I couldn't help myself.
That got me thinking that I'd seen some pretty cool used cymbals at Good N Loud the last time I was there. They had reorganized their drum stuff recently. So I stopped by. The cymbals I'd seen last time weren't there (pretty quick turnover) but they had other decent ones. Nothing on a screaming deal...but reasonable prices for good used cymbals. I would like to acquire a set of good quality used high hats and another decent crash...maybe an 18" crash. Good N Loud had some Zildjian high hats that run $350 new for $199-ish used. I just wasn't prepared to spend that much. But when I am ready to drop $200...I know where to watch now. Definitely a good deal.
Nevermind that I'd rather get used cymbals anyway so I know how they will wear in. A new cymbal is gonna sound different 6 months or a year into playing it. I want to know the final sound. On the other hand, I don't have a great ear for these things.
Also picked up the coolest thing ever. A locking high hat clutch. No more unscrewing in the middle of a show. Super awesome.
Here's the new kit, taken before last weekend's buying binge. I've transferred my existing hardware and cymbals to this kit...and put away most of the stuff that came with it. Also have set aside the 12" tom rack tom and am using only the 13". By the end of this week it'll be outfitted with all new resonent heads. I'm planning to make this my gig kit and leave the other kit set up for general practice. I'm also gonna probably switch out my snares...so this kit will have black toms with black hardware and a silver snare with silver hardware. I don't like the look of the silver snare with the black hardware. Plus, I think the snare that came with this kit has a warped edge. It doesn't seem to affect the tuning, but I'm sure it isn't as good sounding as my other snare.
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